Friday, January 16, 2009

Graduating from Linda Mar to Mavericks

Just kidding.  I went surfing yesterday at Pacifica.  I admit - it was probably the *flattest* day I've *ever* seen there.  I went in dry, and came out with anything above my waist still dry.  However, I do not consider it a successful surf session.

The Mavericks contest was hoping that a typhoon swell originating in Japan (and which hit Oahu's North Shore yesterday with 20+ Hawaiian measurement) would form today.  It didn't, so the contest is off.  Rumor has it that a lot of the pro dudes who have already shown up with surf out there anyway, so it might be worth the drive down to check it out.

I got back into my daily swim when I got back from Mexico, but strangely, I found it to be a LOT less calming than usual.  Thank goodness Pacifica looked good - even though the surf was pathetically small, I felt very tranquil, and thought of nothing but the waves, the freezing cold water that made my hands look like lobster claws, the birds, the ocean and the sun.  Very meditative.

Since Mavericks is off for today (and the weekend), I think I will make another trip out to Pacifica for surfing.  Wish me luck.

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